Lay Ceramic Floor Tile - Ceramic tile is generally easy to install, and it's a great way to upgrade a kitchen or bath. In order to achieve that professional look, proper planning and prep work are the keys.

Sub-floor Preparation

The surface to be tiled must be smooth, dry, and clean. All contaminants must be removed by sanding, scraping or chipping. Any imperfections in the floor should be patched with a waterproof patching compound.

Snap chalk lines with a 90 degree intersection, preferably in the center of the room. Be patient. The more time you invest in laying out your area the better your project will go. Solve your layout questions before the adhesive is even mixed.

For best results, all tiling materials and adhesives should be at 50 to 70 degrees for 24 hours before and 48 hours after installation. Thoroughly mix the mortar with clean water to a toothpaste like consistency. It is best to only mix what can be used in 30 minutes. Stir mixture occasionally to maintain consistency. In the event the mix becomes stiff in the pail, discard and make a fresh batch.

First apply the mortar using the flat side of a trowel to promote substrate contact. Then, using a notch trowel at a 45 degree angle, spread the Mortar uniformly in a ridged pattern. Continue applying mortar in a straight pattern. Do not swirl the trowel, as this creates uneven heights in the mortar. Spread only an area that can be tiled in 10 to 15 minutes. Press tile into Mortar with a slight twisting motion. To prevent any voids or air pockets under the tile, use a small block of wood or rubber mallet and carefully tap the top of each tile to insure complete contact with mortar. Be very gentle here. You don’t want to crack or otherwise weaken the tile. Stay off the tile for 48 hours.

Lumber - Softwood lumber is categorized by intended use - construction or remanufacture. Construction lumber is graded and sized after sawing, surfacing, etc. It is commonly available in lumber yards and serves as the primary resource for many projects. Lumber for remanufacture will undergo secondary processing to create a product that may differ markedly from the original piece. Some examples include stock for pencils, ladders, poles, boxes, etc.

Lumber intended for general construction is subdivided into stress graded, non-stress graded, and appearance categories. Stress graded and non-stress graded lumber are required to have consistent structural integrity. With appearance lumber, visual quality of the piece is most important and structural integrity is a secondary requirement.

The term "yard lumber" is often applied to the non-stress graded and appearance lumber that is sold by retail lumberyards. With such lumber, grading is done on the better side of a piece after drying and surfacing, and grades are designated by specifying the allowable size and number of defects (e.g., knotholes). This contrasts with hardwoods where most grades are determined from the poorer side of each piece on the basis of a specified number of clear cuttings. Another distinction is that hardwoods are typically graded prior to drying and surfacing.

Non-Stress Graded Lumber

With non-stress graded lumber, pieces are graded primarily for serviceability but appearance is also considered, especially in the higher grades. Imperfections such as knots and knotholes are allowed to become larger and more frequent as the grade drops. The primary product is boards that are less than 2 inches in nominal thickness and 2 inches or more in nominal width. Common nominal widths are 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 inches. Lengths are usually from 6 to 18 feet in increments of 2 feet. Three to five different Common grades may be applied to boards in this group depending upon the species and the lumber manufacturing association involved. In descending order of quality, the grades are:

No. 1 (Construction) - Moderate-sized tight knots. Paints well. Used for siding, cornice, shelving, paneling, some furniture.

Ready Mixed Concrete Producer - If you are just starting out with a concrete project, you need to know how to measure the amount needed so you can place an order. Concrete is measured by the cubic yard and is simply called "yard". A yard of concrete contains 27 cubic feet. That's 3' wide, 3' high, and 3' long. So 3' x 3' x 3' = 27 cubic feet, and that's 1 cubic yard.

Most concrete projects are measured by the foot for length and width, and inches for thickness. So how do you determine the cubic yards of concrete to order?

Let’s say you are pouring a slab that measures 20 feet wide, 20 feet long, and 4 inches thick. Start by calculating the square feet of surface area. The formula is:

Stucco Wall - Stucco is very durable. The newer types have a long lifespan and are resistant to the elements. But small cracks do occasionally appear. There is also the problem of mechanical damage from something hitting the surface. Use acrylic latex paint to cover small cracks. You can also fill them with latex caulking compound and then paint with acrylic latex paint. For larger cracks, chisel around the edges of the crack and brush away loose material. Paint the edges with concrete bonding agent and allow to cure. Then use a trowel to fill the crack with stucco patching compound.

Make sure the color and texture are similar to the stucco around it. Matching the texture and color is the hardest part of stucco repair. Make a few trial patches on scrap wood before applying to your house. Keep the patch damp for 4 days to allow it to cure.

Glass Subway Tile Backsplash - If you are looking for a way to add character to your kitchen, consider a ceramic tile backsplash. This is a great project that will add a nice finished look. The project is low cost and does not require a lot of time or specialized equipment to accomplish.

Before starting, review the features of the area. What color are the walls, countertop, floor and appliances? Are the cabinets light or dark? What type of lighting is present, and what does it illuminate? What color and type are the fixtures? If your cabinets are dark, you may want to lighten-up the area. If you have under-cabinet lighting, the backsplash could probably be done in a medium color tone so it doesn’t contrast with the cabinetry.

Surface Preparation

Tile can be installed over most substrates if they are clean, smooth and dry. Check with your supplier to see if the tile you have chosen requires a specific underlayment. Repair and level any damaged or uneven areas. Make certain your countertop is level. If not, insert shims between the lower cabinets and the countertop. Turn off power and water to any outlets within or near your work space. Be careful! Electric wires and plumbing run between studs in walls. Don’t make the mistake of cutting into either while they are still live.

Buy Paint - All house paints are either water based latex or oil based. Latex is the most commonly sold paint today. It covers well, cleanup with water is fast and easy, and it is durable.

Water based latex paints offer significant performance advantages. Compared to oil based paints, top quality exterior latex paints have greater durability, color retention, and chalk resistance, so they continue to look good for years. Since they are less brittle and more elastic than oil based paints, they have better resistance to cracking. Latex paints also dry much faster than oil based paints, which allows for a quicker second coat. When compared with other latex paints, those with 100% acrylic binders are especially durable and highly flexible. They tend to adhere extremely well to a variety of exterior surfaces, and have greater resistance to troublesome paint failures like blistering, flaking and peeling.

Bathroom Tile - Installing ceramic bathroom tiles is one of those projects that are both fairly simple and very rewarding. The entire job can be accomplished over a weekend with minimal tools, and the results provide benefits for years to come.


Horizontal layout lines must be drawn first. Be careful and ensure they are level and easy to read during the installation process. There are two procedures, depending on if your tub or shower pan are level or not.

Level Tub or Shower Pan - If the tub is level to within 1/8″, measure and mark your horizontal line from the high point of the tub. The 1/8″ difference (if there is a difference) can be hidden with grout. Measure up from the lip of the tub, the width of a tile plus 1/8″. Make a line using a level and a straight edge, along the back wall and the two end walls.

Out of Level Tub or Shower Pan - If the tub is not level to 1/8″, mark your horizontal line from the low point. Determine a level line just like for a level tub and run a batten along the bottom of the line. It is usually best to nail a straight wooden batten so that the top of the batten is set to the horizontal line. This provides a level surface for the tile. After all the tile is laid, remove the batten and install the bottom row. You will have to cut the bottom row of tiles to fit along the uneven top edge of the tub or pan.

Vertical Working Lines

Setup the tiles so each edge (border) tile is the same width on each end, and more than half a tile wide. To do this, first locate the mid-point on the back wall and mark it on the horizontal line. Then place a row of loose tiles along the back of the tub, making sure that a joint matches up with the center mark. The distance left at each end gives you the dimension of your border tiles. If the end tiles turn out to be larger than half a tile, make the vertical center line all the way up the wall using a level and straight edge.